Emilio Bulfon Tre Venezie Cividin 2024 – Friuli, Italy

Emilio Bulfon is known for having rediscovered, recovered and developed an authentic yet modern style for ancient indigenous grape varieties in his region of western Friuli in the northeast corner of Italy. Cividin is one of these extremely rare varieties, and Bulfon’s bottling might be the only mono-varietal example (i.e., 100% Cividin, not blended with other grapes) in existence.

This dry, medium-bodied white wine drinks a lot like a Sauvignon Blanc – crisp, zesty citrus and herbaceous flavors – overlaid with floral aromas and a rustic personality that feels essentially Italian. It’s great as an aperitif and with all kinds of cheeses, especially of fresh goat’s milk or aged pecorino. At the table, serve with fresh vegetable preparations, white meats, seafood and any pasta dish featuring a flavorful white sauce.

Organic farming; native yeasts, low-intervention winemaking; “natural”

Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell 2023 – Jumilla, Spain

“In 1930, [founder] Pascual Olivares Fernandez believed that Monastrell was the one variety really well adapted to Jumilla’s climate … of very low rainfall and extremely poor soils.  In that year, he began to make small quantities of wine to supply the local market and Bodegas Olivares was born.” Today, the fourth generation still focuses on the Monastrell grape (aka Mourvèdre), blending it here with 5% Garnacha (aka Grenache) to make a dry, full-bodied and deftly balanced red wine redolent of juicy red and black fruits, tobacco and sweet-smelling spice.

The Olivares’ estate vineyard Hoya de Santa Ana, chalky-sandy soils perched at 825m of altitude, boasts extraordinarily rare ungrafted vines and is privileged with Mediterranean breezes and cooler nights in an otherwise hot-hot-hot region of southern Spain, leading to fruit that’s thoroughly ripe and exceptionally fresh.

This densely flavorful red goes great with  juicy red meats, well-seasoned grilled vegetables and sweet reduction sauces or savory-sweet asian fare. Try also with aged sheep’s milk cheeses or a runny triple-cream. Its deep, enveloping flavors and long finish will satisfy without accompaniment as well.

Sustainable and organic farming, dry-farmed; low-intervention winemaking

Old Westminster “Take Me Home” Cider Blend 2022 – Maryland, USA

Maryland might not be the first state we think of when it comes to wine, but the wines (and other ferments) at Old Westminster winery are nothing to sniff at – or, I should say, are worth sniffing rather intently. They have a wonderful lineup of classic wines of traditional and hybrid grapes, and, as we have here, an always-exciting array of seasonal releases and co-ferments using other fruits.

“Take Me Home” is a blend of 85% heirloom apples and 15% Chambourcin, a red grape that’s native to France but has found a new home in the US in the midwest and on the east coast. In the glass you’ll find a light fizz carrying flavors of crunchy red berries, spice over a foundation of earthy, funky tones. Pair with simply seasoned white meats or with a wide array of cheeses from rich alpines to camembert to blues. The winery suggests sipping alongside cranberry orange glazed cake – yum!

Sustainable “pragmatic” farming, mostly organic with some chemical, some biodynamic practices; everything done by hand from vineyard to cellar; wild yeast fermentation, minimal intervention

Poppy Pinot Noir 2023 – Monterey County, California, USA

Having farmed the Salinas Valley for 45 years, the Silva family decided in 2003 to make a line of wines as quintessentially California as the poppy flowers that grow wild throughout their vineyards and  fields. They seek elegance and approachability in their wines and keep the project focused, working with only Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay sourced from a handful of vineyard sites around Monterey County.

The cool climate of the Arroyo Seco appellation supplies the fruit for their Pinot Noir which shows fresh, ripe berry flavors, silky texture, and notes of mocha and spice at the start and finish imparted from its time spent in new French oak. The winery recommends pairing with a slow roasted lamb shank seasoned with rosemary and orange zest.

Sustainable and organic farming; conventional cellar practices.

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso 2024 – Barolo, Italy

The Vajra family winery has become a household name in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy with an impressive range of wines that each express the identity of the region – from top Barolos all the way down to this little number, which could be considered their flagship wine for its talent as a delicious, anynight table wine of incredible value.

The blend features all the red grapes that the Vajra family does well. When winemaker Isidoro thinks about their Langhe Rosso, he imagines a soccer team: “Nebbiolo is the team captain … for its structure and elegance. Barbera has got personality and enthusiasm while Dolcetto supports the team with its fruit and freshness. Freisa is like [a good defenseman]: decisive but never lets down the guard. Albarossa is the goalkeeper: even though we do not notice him, without him you cannot play. And then Pinot, the playmaker: capable and quick, a real expert in dribbling, who, with his style, brings adrenaline to the match. All together they are a dream team.”

Certified organic farming; low-intervention winemaking

Bernabeleva “Camino de Navaherreros” Blanco 2024 – Sierra de Gredos, Spain

One of my favorite under $20 wines year in, year out. The Navaherrereros Blanco comes from 25-80 year old vines of Albilla Real and Macabeo, the two predominant white grape varieties in the region just west of Madrid, along with a smattering of Muscat and Garnacha Blanca. Sierra de Gredos is a classic alpine Mediterranean forest zone with a mosaic of soil-types whose wines have seen a huge swell of popularity in recent years. Whites and reds here have the potential for complexity, character, and lifted balance while staying under-the-radar-enough to still feel like a steal. Here, a prime example: fresh, full of fruit and textural with a palate-filling unctuousness lent by nine months aged in neutral barrels. Amazing with flavorful seafood, white meat, or vegetable dishes from paella to pad thai.

Biodynamic farming; wild yeast fermentation; a true “natural wine” (though you wouldn’t guess it!)